Sunday 23 September 2018

Day trip to Whitby


Week before last I visited my sister who lives on the north-east English (Yorkshire) coast, from whence I myself hail. I took the opportunity to re-visit Whitby, having been there around a dozen times before, mainly in my youth, the last time being about 10 years ago.
It's only about 20 miles from where she lives, an 80-minute bus ride on the coast road. 

Whitby, a former thriving fishing port, is a place whose international fame and reputation far belies its small size (pop. less than 14,000) - and is best known for its Abbey ruins as well as the inspiration for Bram Stoker's 'Count Dracula', where Stoker himself was impressed after staying at one of its hotels in 1890.
Whitby 'jet' (or lignite), used as jewellery, is also well known. 
It's a popular resort for the British, and in the Summer months I should imagine that its population swells to two or three times that of its residents with the number of visitors it attracts.  


 In the following photo you may just be able to make out the Abbey at the summit of the hill:-
There are 199 steps leading up to the cliff top where the Abbey ruins are located (wheeze.....puff.....gasp.....):-

There is no lift alternative. The only assistance is provided by a railing to hold. There are no seats or benches for resting. Every 20 steps or so there's a broader step, about three times the breadth of others, called a 'coffin stop' where monks and others used to be able to set down the body of the deceased on the way to requiem mass in the abbey and burial, in order to take a breather in their arduous, burdensome climb. 

The Abbey of St Hilda's was, in effect, a double monastery and was established in the year 657 C.E., flourishing with strategic status and position in medieval Christianity until it was sacked and shut down in the 16th century by Henry VIII as part of his dissolution of all the English monasteries, taking the considerable valuables for himself and pouring the gains into the country's revenues.
In the year 664 the Synod of Whitby, an international convocation, had decided on how to determine the date of Easter throughout Christianity (an unwieldy formula which we've been lumbered with ever since), as well as ruling that the Roman-styled tonsure should be adopted for monks universally.  

Goodbye to a highly interesting, most historic and attractive, little town:-

18 comments:

  1. What a lovely tour!!!! The first picture almost reminds me of the quaint town used in the Doc Martin series. I would have loved to have seen the ruins of the Abbey. Things like this, and the feel of Whitby, always interests me, as I can day dream who and what went on in these places at one time. I thoroughly enjoyed this tour Raybeard. And glad to hear your fit, and survived the 199 steps.

    Bram Stroker, and that movie, are among one of my favorite. the look and feel of the movie was incredible.

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    1. Glad you liked it, M.M. Last time I climbed all those steps I think I managed it with stopping only once or twice. This time I used the 'coffin stops' to the full - all of them - and even then was near to collapse at the top.
      Whitby's well worth a visit, even if only a day out. It's atmosphere for multiple reasons is quite unique in my experience.

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  2. no thanks to climbing all those damn stairs. there MUST be a road to the abbey. thanks for posting the pix, dear. always like to live vicariously through my friends!

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    1. Actually there is another accessibility road to the Abbey, W.Q. A road for cars round the back leading to a car park, much longer then the 'direct' way. Not sure if there's a pavement for walkers. Didn't check as I'm no wimp - even though it half killed me! :-)

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  3. One of my fav places Great fish n chips

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    1. It's great, but only when the weather's right, JayGee - and for me on that day it was perfect. And yes, I did have the obligatory bag (v. large) of chips.

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  4. Oh I love posts like this one. It all looks quite English.
    Is there a lot of Dracula knick-knacks and kitsch for sale?

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    1. There is, Dr Spo - and yet it's a place that hasn't been OVER-commercialised, a town where there are so many quaint corner shops and not swamped by McDonalds and the like. It's managed to retain its olde worlde charm against all the pressures, with many walking tours (at least one being Dracula-themed) and boat trips beyond the harbour available. Nice place.

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  5. I used to visit in the 1970s when I lived in the North East. I don't suppose it has changed that much.

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    1. I hardly think it's changed at all, Rachel, which is one of its main attractions. Seems to be insulated from the 21st century, which is all to the good.

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  6. Excellent tour, Mr. Whitby Tourist Board. I’d love to visit.

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    1. Part of the essential old England, Mitch. A place to see to give one a rounded view of the country.

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  7. what a wonderful post! Thanks Ray.

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    1. Thanks to you, R., for your visit to this blog, enabling you to make a vicarious visit of your own to this unique place.

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  8. Gorgeous! Ruins are loads of fun for the imagination. And the town looks charming.

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    1. It's every bit the way it looks, Walt, a relatively unspoilt corner of long gone history. I've no doubt that France has many equivalents.

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  9. Hi Ray;
    We visited Whitby a few years ago and yes, marched up those 199 steps! Also had the best fish n chips meals ever. It's a charming town and would love to go back some day.

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    1. It's famed for ts fish & chips, Camille, Being veggie for over 60 years I'll take word on the fish but the chips were, as ever, fab. (Chips always seem to be so much better in northern towns anyway, but Whitby's are classic - with 'scraps', naturally!)

      Hope you'll get another chance to come over and visit the little town again, and climbing all those steps. I certainly want to be able to do it again even if with many more pauses for breath.

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